Replay spring-summer 2017
One passion, one vision, one city: Replay’s “Sunset Icons”
Image Supplied by Replay
Thirty-five years of denim history and culture coupled with the desire to build new, thrilling visions. The passion and authenticity of tradition on the one side; on the other, a vision: to build the future with due regard for the past.
One passion and one vision narrated through one city: Los Angeles, with its constant movement, diversity and ferment. The city of angels, where dreams become reality and where the new takes shape. These are the ingredients of “Sunset Icons”, the new Replay collection.
A contemporary, living melting pot that has its deepest roots in the biker influences of its motorcycle gangs, in the power and spirit of the military universe, and in the exotic and warm notes of the gipsy world. And so the colours of festivals in the desert and ethnic prints are combined with military memorabilia, flashes and camouflage to then dive into the leather, zips and metal of the free riders.
The fit opts for loose, soft and comfortable shapes, with raw cuts, rips and fraying underlining the collection’s relaxed mood, which reappears in the choice of garments: bombers, Bermudas, dresses, jumpsuits and ponchos, all in different versions and customisations.
The diversity of L.A. is expressed in the materials, which have been carefully selected and researched, particularly in terms of handle and weight. Unusual textures and plays on contrasts emerge, particularly in the womenswear, taking in cool lightweight fabrics, like linen and cotton, georgette, to vintage leathers, velvet/chenille, knitwear, right down to many raw and slubbed materials.
The colour palette instead offers two extremes: on the one hand lots of colour and therefore different shades of dark blues, indigo and sky blues, as well as white, military green, red/coral, baby blue, fuchsia, beige, grey, gold, silver and black. Otherwise plenty of sun bleached and cold-dyed watercolour hues, which fade with each wash to produce new nuances each time.
Diversity reappears in the prints, which include flowers, palm trees, animals, classic camouflage and new camouflage with animal print inserts, watercolours, patchwork and paisley, ethnic geometries, stripes, leopard print in total red or total grey and biker iconography.
Even the customisations are vast and varied: jewel appliqués, gold medals, sequins, studs, fabric beads, silver plates, lots of tears, particularly in the knitwear, denim and tees, often left open. Plenty of ethnic or oriental-style embroideries, Fifties-style patches, fringes, braiding and ribbons almost always with ethnic and exotic motifs. Handwriting on garments and sprays of glitter to catch the sunlight.
Highlights for HER
The Sahara jacket in military green customised with studs and hand-painted stars; the bomber in military nylon with long silver laces on the zip and lining with oriental pattern; the jacket in oriental/ethnic fabric, with velvet/chenille cuff with jewel appliqués and fabric beads; the baby blue bomber in leather, hand washed and dried with natural techniques for a warm vintage effect. All the ponchos, with or without
fringes, in sweat cloth, lightweight fabric or leather, with camouflage, floral or batik motifs. The military parachuting jumpsuit, sleeveless and fastened with a gold bejewelled zip; cool, lightweight and slightly Seventies dresses, with flowers or golden ethnic embroideries on a black base, as well as map and paisley patterns.
Highlights for HIM
The used-look leather biker with zip and hem belts; the sand-coloured ultra-soft suede jacket with zip, complete with eco-friendly treatments carried out by hand for a vintage appeal, like the leather biker jackets with reinforcements on the shoulders and sleeves; the two-button jacket, also hand-dyed and with lining in technical and new camouflage print mesh. Also, the denim jacket and shirt with Fifties-style patches. The shirts, coming in all shades from white to blue and offering also floral, ethnic, striped or check patterns. All the tees, particularly the series with hand drawings, and the sweatshirts with prints or Fifties patches. Lastly the bermudas, cargo style, regular or customised with watercolour, palm tree, flowers, camouflage or patches.
THE MIRACLE OF DENIM
“Sunset Icons” also enshrines the birth of “Miracle of Denim”, the definition of a new way to interpret and wear jeans. An unusual denim dream which succeeds in combining tradition and innovation, authenticity and change. L.A. is the driver behind this philosophy with its colours, shapes and lights.
Its faded colours become “Venice Bleach”: all the “bleaches” one can find along the Venice Broadwalk, with their saltiness and their nuances. These are washed and highly distressed jeans with an extremely faded look.
“L.A. Sky” brings all of the colours of the city sky to the five-pocket pants. The mid blues of clear days and all of the bright colours of fiery sunsets.
“Authentic contemporary” expresses the more relaxed L.A. mood, made of denim with a loose, soft and warm handle. Redcast shades, 100% salt and pepper cotton, traditional washes, stone washing and three eco-friendly laser washes (the latter for men only).
“Shades of Black”: the night lights of Los Angeles reinterpret blacks and greys. Here, blacks are repeatedly washed and treated until they turn into greys, ranging from dark to light.
Lastly “Selvedge” the luxury denim for men. Five-pocket trousers, 100% made in Italy, selvedged and handmade complete with brass rivets. They come in four washes including rinsed and destroyed.
As regards to fit, the menswear offers 6 styles: skinny, slim, tapered, regular and comfort. Womenswear has 7: jegging, skinny, biker, slim, straight, carrot and boy.