Skin Care “Hacks” That You Should NEVER Try!
I am writing this furious as hell because everyday, on Twitter, i see influential accounts posting the most atrocious skin care ‘advice’. With skin care being my most beloved passion, this is really infuriating to me. Especially when the ‘advice’ has thousands of retweets. I just got into a small argument with some girl on Twitter all because i was disagreeing with the skin care “hacks” that she posted. Sorry not sorry. I am not going to sit and watch people destroy other people’s skin.
So, i figured i will come and vent here to my heart’s content and while i am at it, blog about skin care DIYs you should never ever try. This is an information blog, so get pen and paper and lets begin with our Biology lesson.
SKIN CARE 101 – ANATOMY
Lets talk about the structure of the skin and how it is designed in order to play its protective role for our body. There are three main layers of the skin. The outermost layer is referred to as the Epidermis, the middle is the Dermis and the innermost layer is referred to as the subcutaneous layer. I want to discuss these three layers briefly, before i go on and explain, in much greater detail, what i actually want to get across.
EPIDERMIS LAYER – HOW IT WORKS
As stated above, this is the outermost layer of the skin; the part of the skin that is visible to us. The epidermis layer of the skin, itself, is also comprised of many layers – the basal cell layer, the spinous cell layer, the granular cell layer, and the stratum corneum. The cells in the epidermis are called keratinocytes. 
BASAL LAYER
The deepest layer of the epidermis is the basal cell layer. Here cells are continually dividing to produce plump new skin cells (millions daily). These cells move towards the skin surface, pushed upward by the dividing cells below them. When the cells are still in the basal layer, they are supplied nutrients by the blood vessels present in that part of the skin. It is this that supports and allows for the growth of new cells. As these cells move on up, they move AWAY from the blood supply and this causes change in the shape, and cell content.
Also, in the basal layer, we find melanocytes. These are the cells responsible for producing melanin – This melanin is a pigment absorbed by cells to protect them form the harmful UV lights. Two factors determine how much melanin you have; Genes (most importantly) and Sun exposure. The more melanin you have, the darker the skin is and the more protection.
SPINOUS
The cells above the basal layer, as mentioned above, start to change; the shape becomes more irregular and this is when they form the spinous layer. Because these cells have moved up and away from the basal layer, they start to die out because in the spinous layer, there is no blood supply. When this happens, the skin starts to produce a form of protein called “Keratin” – the same which can be found in your nails and hair.
STARTUM CORNEUM
The Stratum Corneum is the outer-most layer of the dermis – The layer that is visible to us. ells here are flat and scale-like (‘squamous’) in shape. These cells are dead, contain a lot of keratin and are arranged in overlapping layers that impart a tough and waterproof character to the skin’s surface.
THE DERMIS
Below the epidermis is the layer called the dermis. The top layer of the dermis — the one directly below the epidermis — has many ridges called papillae. This layer of our skin contains some fat, collagen as well as elastin fibres that provide the skin with flexibility and strength. For healthy-looking skin, a balance is required. Once the skin starts becoming compromised, it can lose its elasticity as well as its subcutaneous fat.
The skin varies in thickness and the number of hair follicles, sebaceous glands and sweat glands in different areas of the body. The thickest skin is on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. A large number of hair follicles are on the top of the head.
SUBCUTANEOUS FAT
The innermost layer of the skin is the layer of subcutaneous fat, and its thickness varies in different regions of the body. The fat stored in this layer represents an energy source for the body and helps to insulate the body against changes in the outside temperature.
Okay, now that we have the anatomy on lock, let us deal with pH. All of this forms a base for my argument on why not to try some of these skin care “hacks” that we see on social media, so stay with me, here.
SKIN PH
Skin pH is one of the most important things you should understand about skin.
The skin is naturally acidic and exists at a pH of around 5.5 (which is slightly acidic). This is an average, but it can range from 4.5-6.5 depending on your skin chemistry and what products you have been using on your skin as well as geography.
This acidity plays a key role in skin. Certain enzymes in the Stratum Corneum are activated at an acidic pH. Changes in pH affect enzyme activity and interfere with the skin’s normal shedding process (desquamation), which is why maintaining the correct pH of your skin is essential for healthy skin.
Additionally, an acidic pH inhibits the growth of certain harmful bacteria on skin.
*What is pH?
The pH is a measure of acidity and alkalinity. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral (neither acidic nor alkaline). Anything under 7 is acidic. Anything above 7 is alkaline.
THE ACID MANTLE PROTECTS SKIN
The Stratum Corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) is a protective barrier to the external environment.
The combination of sebum and sweat forms a film on top of the Stratum Corneum known as the acid mantle. It is both a physical and chemical barrier that provides a crucial form of protection, the skin’s first defense mechanism.
If it is disrupted or removed, skin becomes more permeable to microorganisms (such as bacteria), harsh chemicals, and pollutants. Water escapes from skin faster too.
Why pH is So Important
So, let’s return to why skin pH is so important. If our skin is naturally acidic, we should be applying skin care products that are consistent with our skin’s natural pH. Makes sense, right?
Changing the skin’s pH on a continual basis is harmful to skin because it disrupts the acid mantle, which serves an important protective function. Higher (alkaline) pH products dilate follicles (swelling them), which increases the permeability of skin. Skin that is more permeable is more vulnerable to microorganisms and irritants.
Extreme pH levels harm skin and cause inflammation, irritation, and dryness. (whether too high or too low)
Repeated use of products that are not pH-balanced can create chronic problems in your skin.
Unfortunately, some skin care products are pH-inappropriate. I won’t pick on any brands, but you might be surprised that this happens with a lot of popular brands.
A difference of 1 pH may not seem like a lot. But, on the pH scale, a difference of 1 number is a power of 10. This means that a pH of 4 is 10 times more acidic than a pH of 5. A pH of 3 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 5. A pH of 2 is 1,000 times more acidic than a pH of 5. (If this doesn’t sound logical, it’s because the pH scale is logarithmic, not linear.)
So, look for products that stay within 1 pH of skin’s pH — ideally in a pH range of 5.0-6.0.
SKIN CARE HACKS NEVER TO TRY
CITRUS
1. Anything involving citrus juices such as lemon, oranges, grapefruit etc. The pH levels of these are way too low to be applied to the skin. I used to be a fan of citrus, before I knew what I know now, but the effects are very severe. Lemon not only compromises your skin’s pH, but also makes it photosensitive. This means you become extra vulnerable to the sun. I don’t care how much sunscreen you’re lathering onto your skin; the damage is being done. This includes citrus essential oils as well.
BAKING SODA
2. Anything involving Baking Soda. Look, I don’t know where people get these ideas. But baking soda is way too alkaline for the skin. Use it enough times and you will have dry, brittle skin that cannot be revived. Why? Because it has eaten away at your acid mantle.
VINEGAR
3. Anything involving vinegar. I am not too sure why people use vinegar on their skin, maybe as an astringent to fight oil and acne. But DON’T DO IT. the same rule applies here as well. People sometimes use Apple Cider Vinegar, I have my reservations about this, still. Rather you dilute it in your water and drink some.
VODKA
4. Vodka to remove acne is another one. Please don’t, your skin will hate you and you will only make things worse for yourself when your acid mantle has been eaten away.
ALCOHOL
5. Alcohol-based products are also vicious. I know when you have oily skin it seems like the better plan because the alcohol cuts away at the oil and acts as an astringent but, seriously speaking, its very very bad for you. For example witch hazel (there is a non-alcohol version) that is widely used by people with oily skin.
SKIN CARE ADVICE FROM YOUTUBERS?
There are so many more other home recipes that claim to help your skin yet don’t. Please do not fall for these shortcuts at the expense of your skin’s health. It is simply not worth it. And it’s frustrating because there are some wonderful home remedies which really do work wonders for the skin. Just my piece of advice, please do not be getting your skin care advice from youtubers. I berg you. I love youtubers but almost all the time, what comes out of their mouth is utter garbage. I mean, I have seen remedies ranging from adding glue to activated charcoal to make a peel off mask (what on earth?) to mixing baking soda and lemon to use an exfoliant or lighten teeth (both are equally as bad).
Just please do not.
Let’s remember that the Internet is a huge space. Everybody and anybody can post whatever bullsh** they want about whatever they want. It’s on your onus to do extra research. I don’t care what Google says about your skin. Google just shoes you what other people claim. I realised even popular magazines like ELLE and TeenVogue post the exact same trashy advice.
Skin health is my die hard passion. I will die before I let these people get away with misinformation. Especially because I was a victim of it as well, at some point. Your skin is a functional organ; treat it as such.
All love
